Monday, July 13, 2009

Done with Homestay # 2














































Yes I finally have gotten to a computer that I’m not paying by the minute to use and… this is not a French key board that I am typing on. So I can actually include exclamation points and such. However, the French key boards are forcing me to FINALLY learn how to type without looking; and it’s about time. There is a health volunteer about a 40 minute walk from me that has been do kind enough to let me type stuff on his computer in my leisure time, so then I can then save whatever it is to my flash drive and then just copy and past it into the blog or email or whatever. There is no way I would ever have time/money to type this out in the cyber. Plus he is pretty cool, which is sweet, because it’s nice to be able to sometimes go hangout, speak English, watch movies, whatever.

So CTB is over (hallelujah) and I have been living in my site for about a month and half now (see uploaded pictures which will without a doubt evoke jealously over how beautiful my new home is) and I am starting to feel at home. It really is beautiful here. The only drawback is that it is really remote/rural. Due to the remote location of my site, it comes with a bit backwards behavior. Kind of like if you moved to tiny town in the backwoods of Kentucky where no one went to school past the 8th grade. But everyone spoke a language you didn’t know so you hardly ever understood what the hell was going on/the backwoods behavior. However, I think that is just part of the whole deal. If the people in the village were well educated and cosmopolitan esq; they wouldn’t need my help.

The big drawback to being so remote is that the only way to get out of the village is to take one of the two transits (aka an automatic BMW van with bench seats welled into it) owned by the two competing transit drivers in the village three hours down to the nearest town, Kelaa M’Gouna. The transit leaves at 4:00 am after the first call to prayer. But by far the best part of the whole transit situation is that because women here don’t often travel, they often get motion sick coming down from the mountains. This means that the whole transit smells like vomit the entire way. Last week I got stuck sitting next to a pucky woman and it was the weirdest thing. When the rest of the women in the transit tried to give her plastic bags to throw-up into, she refused them, preferring rather to through up into a washcloth. Although, as you can image, one can’t really throw-up into a wash cloth. I found this behavior strange and could not for the life of me understand why she refused the bags; however it didn't really seem like an ideal time to inquire as to why she didn't want the plastic bags. I dealt with this by closing my eyes and listing to Emmylou Harris on my mp3 player (thank you Brandi, because of you and the Emmylou you gave, this situation was much more bearable), it did a pretty good job of soothing me to the point that I didn’t start throwing-up. Thank you too, Ernie for the help with the Mp3 player/computer. Coping with situations like this would be much more difficult sans the music.

It stormed for days this week, and the sound of the thunder roaring thought the mountains was amazing and deafening, it sounded like the were jets flying yards over the village. I have never experienced storms like this. It thundered all day and then finally the rain came- hard. And the heat lightning, omg, for someone that loves storms this was super exciting. I think that my host family thought it was weird that I went and stood on the roof with an umbrella to watch, but, whatever.
The host family is good people. Six of the nine children are still living in the house and anytime one needs another rather than go find then they just stand in one spot and scream their name until the person yells back or they get tired of yelling. This can be a bit overwhelming especially given that I was lived alone for years prior to joining Peace Corps. Honestly, it feels like I am living in the Moss house circa 1998 and all four Moss girls and Nancy are a yelling at each other all at once. But the family is really good to me and helps me get around and integrate into the community everywhere they can. For example, if I need to get out of the village they will go with me and assist me in figuring with of the two transit guys is going to be going down to Kelaa in the morning and make sure that they don’t leave with me. The oldest daughter Nadia, and I have become friends and I value this friendship immensely. She is kind and thoughtful and always helps me to help me be “in the know” about what’s going on in the village. Sometimes she advises me as to how to proceed with my work and usually her suggestions are much better ideas than the course of action I was going to take. I think I would be really lonely if it weren’t for Nadia. Plus she is one of the only people that can understand me despite my “accent”/shity pronunciation.


Good, wonderful, spectacular news though! I found a house this week. When I got here, I was told that here was not a house that was empty that I would be able to move into. I was incredibly worried about what I was going to do about my living situation because this meant that I would either have to move to a different village and most likely would have end up working in that village or live with the house family for two years. The latter was not an option! This would have really sucked because then I would have lost out on and been unable to build on the work the volunteer prior to me did. She told me it took her the entire first year to get the village to understand she was here to do development work and not a tourist. The host fam told the previous volunteer that there was not a house available she could rent and therefore, she never moved out and the family subsequently ended up being paid the rent money we are allotted, for providing her with housing. However, I think that the having to contend with a complete lack of privacy made her service much harder then it would have had, had she had her own house. Anyway, I am just elated about this development! Plus I have already gotten comfortable here and started to build a rapport with the community, so I was very, vary relieved when the house magically became available. Basically I just told them that if I couldn’t find somewhere to live I would have to go live and work in another village and then all the sudden they seem to remember that there was a house available that I could live in. I can’t wait to have my own kitchen. I pretty much have to eat what they eat and last week they cooked a goat head that had been sitting in a bucket of lukewarm water for days and then I throw-up for days. K that’s all I have time for now. But next time I blog…lol (I just think that its so funny that I blog, who knew that my life would ever consist of anything worth bloging about?) I will talk about/cover the projects I’m gonna be working on and my trip to Marrakesh and Rabat. Which was awesome…. Later I can’t really keep my eyes open anymore now.

Thursday, March 19, 2009

Upon Arrival


Hey All,

So I don't even know where to start.... I love Peace Corps/Morocco!! K, now I will try to explain. I have been in country for 17 days now and “home” and the life I had before I got on the plan seems/feels like I left it so long ago. I think this id due mostly to the fact that nothing feels the same here. Morocco is beautiful. The terrain is more varied and breathtaking than I could have possibly imagined. There's beaches (which I have yet to see), snow capped mountains, desert, green rolling hills- and it changes so suddenly. One second your driving through green rolling hills with rivers and lakes and literally go around a bend in the road, and the geography turns to rocky arid red earth, scarcely spotted with different varieties of trees. Its spring here and the trees are blooming, which just makes the whole sight/experience that much more awesome. I can't wait to begin traveling around following CBT (Community Based Training). Right now I'm in my second of eight weeks of CBT training. The name of the village I and the other 5 members of my CBT group are stationed in, is, Ait Mhamed. During CBT training which is basically language acquisition and culture training; we are not allowed to travel or spend the night outside Azilal. Azilal is our “hub sight”. Meaning the nearest actual city, its roughly 40 minutes away. Azilal is beautiful as well. Even more beautiful then Ait Mhamed. Our CBT group and out LCF (Learning C Facilitator) travel to Azilal once to twice a week to meet with the other CBT groups of Environment volunteers, get shots, and what are basically survival presentations. Like what to do if you get stung by a scorpion, ringworm, get a snake or dog bite (rabies is a problem here and there are packs of feral dogs that roam around the village), etc...

My host family is amazing. I totally lucked out! They have nothing (no seriously, nothing) and I mean this in the most respectful way possible. Besides, I adore Njma (my host mom) and would never speak badly of her. But laugh all the time and are exceedingly kind and patient with me. Njma, her daughter, niece and mother live in two bedroom house. I am now living in one of the two bedrooms which I feel real guilty about, but what can I do. The grandma is pretty sick and stays/sleeps in a little room/storage area above the house most of the time. So I don't see much of her and she is not really into chatting with me in my horrendous Tamazight; which I completely understand. Njma, Zinup, and Ilham are some of the most inspiring people I have ever meet. They are simply- good people. The first night I got to Ait M'hamed I got really sick for some reason and started vomiting. They were so good to me. They took me to the bathroom and stood two feet away looking extremely concerned while I pucked into a Turkish Toilet (not a pleasant experience) and then brought me back to my room, brought me water, extra blankets and pillows and proceeded to check on me periodically throughout the night. Pretty much what anyone would want if they were throwing-up, night one in someone else's house, in a foreign county where the language spoken simply sounded like gibberish. I didn't even know where to go to throw-up. But I communicated the issue pretty clearly through nonverbal communication; it came fairly naturally. Lol... Njma only has a index finger and thumb on her right hand which, from what I can tell she simply excepted years ago. Neither her nor any of the other woman in the village seem to notice. She is not slowed down by this in the least- shes a weaver by profession. Her daughter Ilham, is deaf and mute. Njma and Zinap communicate through a sign language system that from what I can tell, they have developed themselves said it works great for them. They seem to have less frequent miscommunication then my mom and me and we can both speak. They crack jokes to one another all the time. I miss/can't figure out the content of a lot of them, but it is comforting to me, to see the moments joy and laughter they display everyday. They have a much reason as anyone to feel bitter or jipped. However it doesn't seem like it would even occur to them; why, would one waste time with that when you can take pleasure in life and those around you. They laugh at me quite a bit. My lack of wife/women skills, my Tamazight, the way I end up acting everything out after 10 minutes of failed attempts to communicate in Tamazight. Zinap usually figures it out right away, which makes since.
There is not a man in the house which has been a huge relief since a lot of the training I received during stagging before coming to Ait Mhamed dealt with handling and minimizing harassment from men, which can range from men in the village to possibly your host father. Plus this allows us to be more open with each other. For example I showed them pictures of me and my family and some where from the Oregon coast and Allie, Elliott and I were naturally in bathing suits. This would have been a major taboo had there been a man in the room. The women “shouldn't be looking at pictures of men without shirts and pants on and it would be inappropriate for a man to look a picture of a woman in a bathing suit with other women around”, basically I would have just made everyone uncomfortable. Plus we get to laugh and have girl jokes. Or the other night they played me some Tamazight music and showed me how to dance, they were really, really good. This was so fun! This too however would not have been permissible had there been a man around. Women don't dance around men, really, from what I gather. It would be considered somewhat promiscuousness or a sign of promiscuity.

With this said, please don't take these has hard and fast cultural standards. These are simply generalizations for the sake of explanation. What is considered taboo varies from region to region and village/cities within the different regions of the country. Also from what I understand, things are staring to be much less conservative in the bigger cities. Your not going to see a woman wearing a tank-top by any means, but perhaps a man and women holding hands or a women in heals. I obviously do not have contextualize understanding of the culture and the point, which is primarily based on values associated Islam.
The language is really hard but I feel I'm doing ok, or at least keeping up with my group.
I will add more later when I get I chance but am out of time for now.

Take care and best wishes!

Love,

Emily

Monday, February 16, 2009

Starting My Blog

This is my first entry. Brandi (far left) is helping me set it up.